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High power motors

I have tested the new wheels and the performance from them is perfect.

I have tried them in my bike that has the 24″ 48v1000w rear wheel that I bought from leafmotor in July 2010. This bike has 48v Lifepo4 battery and max speed is 36km/h with the July 2010 motor.
When I put the new 26″ 48v1000w wheel in this bike max speed is 50 km/h.
Then I tried the 26″ wheel in another bike also with another 48v Lifepo4 battery and the performance is also good.
I am interested to find the answer. I dis-assembled the new 26″ hub and the old July 2010 24″ hub and swapped the axle and windings from each motor, re-assembled them and tested again. The 26″ wheel now has 39km/h max speed and the old 24″ is 46km/h.

This tells us that the axle windings in each of the new wheels have much higher power capability than the older wheel.

Actually old hub motor and new hub are the same cost.
Everything is no changed,the same hub,the same rotor,the same magnet,except coil wires.
Change the gauge of the coil wires and/or the turns number of the coils can adjust motor speed,power etc.
Old hub motor is standard motor,it’s fit for US transportation law.26″ 36V 750W, the speed is 20 miles/hour.
If need extra speed,power etc..We can customize as your need.

I am also satisfactory with my bicycle.
18″ 48V 1000W hub motor speed:17 miles/hour

High power performance motor doesn’t depend on speed or power,but customers’ need,law allowed.

My 48V 15-MOS-FET brushless controller drive 700c 48V 1000W electric bike motor,has enough power to climb hill.

This is a reliable hub motor,never meet any problem in 1 year.

I ordered the same motor(hbl 36V 750W hub motor) last month and repeat testing it,perfect.

Not surprising.This electric motor is ripe product and used for e-bikes widely in China.Anywhere you can find this kind of hub motor in China.
You did make a good choice and ordered ripe motor.It’s better than internal control motor.That kind the controller is built inside the motor,because of high temp,easy to break controller.If the internal controller is broken,all system is dead,should replace controller and motor together.

After repaired this hub motor by myself as instructions shown on this forum.I am much better to like this motor,like leafmotor’s forum.

Received my 700c 48V 1000W electric bike kit two weeks ago and took 1 day to done installation.Ride it per day,be satisfying with motor powerful

This is brushless gearless high speed motor, compare to brushless geared motor.The second one has more powerful,but with a little gear noise.Now 750w and 1000w brushless geared hub motors can’t find in market.Most of geared motors are 250w.

We always think faster,better.But because of local law for ebike so that we can’t ride high power motor bike.
I received 36V 750W hub motor,then make a label ” 36V 500W” on it.

From you test,you think faster speed motor is more powerful,actually you are wrong.
Estimate motor performance:faster speed,less powerful,slower,more powerful.

About motor speed,power,I think leafmotor can customize it according as customers’ actual need.

electric bike motor

Hub motor,bldc motor,brushless motor,gasoline motor..Any kind of motor,used for electric bike,we call bike motor.

In North America and Europe,gasoline motor is still used for electric bike.Picture enclosed.It can’t received by most of people.

Electric gasoline motor bike,call it an electric bike?But it makes pollution.Call it motorcycle?But it more dangerous than motorcycle, they both have high speed.But the tyre of gasoline motor bike is the same to common electric bike.

Be tired for one week work,please be far from pollution – choose electric motor bike.

Our electric bike motor:
1.14″ 16″ 18″ 36V 750W & 48V 1000W front & rear casting hub motor;
2.20″ 24″ 26″ 700c 28″ 36V 750W & 48V 1000W front & rear spoke hub motor;
3.12″ 16″ 18″ 36V 250W & 24V 250W front & rear casting hub motor;
2.20″ 24″ 26″ 700c 28″ 36V 250W & 24V 250W front & rear spoke hub motor;
Speed from 5~30miles.

Welcome to customise.

Convert electric bike motor kit isn’t too difficult.You need below tools:
1.1 pcs of open-end wrench
2.1 pcs of phillips screwdriver
3.1 pcs of voltmeter
4.some zip-ties

How to install electric bike kit?
1.Make your bike upside down;
2.Use open-end wrench to loose both nuts and remove the front or rear wheel;
3.Find out the direction of motor runs;
4.Fix motorized wheel on your bike;
5.Use open-end wrench to tight both nuts;
6.Connect wires;
7.Make your wheel in the air,power on battery and test;
8.If it can’ work.Please use volt-meter to measure.

Some noise from rim or hub

Q:After running for a couple of weeks.Sometime you can find there is some noise from bicycle rim while you are riding.

A:Now you should check spoke nipple.If can’t find 36 pcs nipple on spokes.There must be some nipples inside the rim,if not,maybe some aluminium impurity.

Solve:Disconnect your hub motor wheel from your e-bike,remove the tyre,you will find there is a red gasket round the rim,also take it off.Then make the valve hole down,shake rim,the impurity will be out of the rim.Re-install them.

Solve this noisy problem.

Advice: We suggest after running several days,had better to tight 36 pcs nipples.

Q:Can you help me?I am very disappointment.
I ordered a motor from the other supplier,the HBS36F — Front Motor.Sent several emails,haven’t gotten any reply in 2 weeks.

I have just tested it and it makes a noise once every turn and it gets stuck (or at least much more friction) at the same angle. It feels like it could be some magnetic effect but more likely it´s some mechanical contact that´s disturbing the rotation. Have you heard of this problem before or is the electric bike motor constructed to act like this? Could we do something to fix it, like open it up and remove whatever that´s making the noise?

A:The noise comes from some metal impurity on the magnet.

Solve: Disconnect hub and remove it

Instructions for 36V rear hub motor

Q:I am writing to see if you have any kind of instructions to install the hub motors and controllers I purchased from leafmotor.

I received two 36V hbl hub motors along with two lcc-001 controllers.
I did not receive any instructions as to how to install them.

The wires are labeled as follows:(heavy gauge wires)
Black has a dash – goes to the battery negative
Red is connected to a male connector with a smaller purple wire that says Power Switch and that goes to Battery positive.
The following I am not sure of:
Green says Mb
Blue says Mc
Yellow says Ma

The lighter gauge wires from the 12 pin connector are as follows:
Red goes to Power Switch terminal (mentioned above)
Black goes to the center of the 3 pin connector and to the 4 – 2 pin connectors
White goes the brake plug
Purple goes to the reverse plug
Green goes to the 3 pin connector
Brown goes to the horn plug
Smaller red goes to the 3 pin connector
Orange goes to the cruise connector

I do have a few questions about the power & horn switches and the speed controllers.

1. Can I use one switch for each of the functions below?
a) one switch to turn power on and off for both controllers?
can this be a simple on-off toggle type switch?
b) another switch to activate both horns?
can this one be a momentary push button switch?
c) and another switch to control the speed of both hub motor?
what type of switch is needed for this function?

2. How can we control wheel speed when turning as one wheel would need to spin slower than the other throughout the radius when making a left or right hand turn?

Note: I do not have handle bars on this vehicle. It is a four wheeler and it uses a rack and pinion steering system with a steering wheel. I would need to have switched that can be mounted on a flat surface instead of on handle bars.

strange problem with 5000W bldc motor

Some very strange problem with 48V 5000W bldc motor. Purchased six motors half a year ago, for EV project. We managed to get to the actual testing with your motors only now.

When started our tests, we faced very strange problem.

Need help and suggestion on what the reason of problem can be.
We have or own BLDC controller, with three half-bridge, PWM for low
gates and block commutation for high gates. Everything works great,
but motor does not start in two particular positions of rotor.

If refer to the wiring diagram, motor does not start when try to
rotate it clockwise (if I look into shaft) when:

1) Hall sensor with yellow wire is activated, others passive
2) Both hall sensors with yellow and green wires are activated, blue
is passive.

When try to run it counterclockwise it doesn’t start in two other
positions when:

1) Hall sensor with blue wire is activated, others passive
2) Both hall sensors with blue and green wires are activated, yellow
is passive.

Please note that in both cases the positions where motor doesn’t start
are consequent.

Motor starts perfectly in all other positions of Halls. If motor
started in some other position, it rotates without problems. I think
it simply passes the problem angles due to inertia it has.

I checked, double and triple checked my truth table and it is okay.
It works great on some other BLDC motors I have.

Then I thought that this particular motor has problems in its wrings
inside and tried other motors I purchased from you. All six motors
show the same problem, in the same positions.

So I have two possibilities now:

1) There are some “dead” zones inside motor which I’m not aware of. I
think this is an issue. If so, please let me know how to overcome it.

2) Something wrong with my controller. But this is unlikely. Firstly, it
works with other BLDC motors without problems. Secondly, your motor
doesn’t start in two consequent positions of rotor. If algorithm is
wrong, then it will fail on some opposite positions, not consequent.

Please, let me your thoughts on this problem, as I’m starting to think
that there is some secret in motors that I don’t understand!

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

And please note that letting aside this above mentioned problem, your
motors are pure gold and we are going to order some good amount for
our EV factory in next months, if we settle this very problem I talk
of.

some trouble with my electric bike

Q:I have some trouble with my electric bike again. This time the battery is okay, but hub motor is totally “dead”. The bike just stopped when I was driving. Do you have any suggestion about what to do? Is there any fuses or something else to check? All the wires are okay. Can you help me?
A:If you make sure the wires are okay. I think the problem possible comes from battery.
Case maybe when you measure the voltage of your battery,it is standard voltage,but when you need to run your wheel,the voltage will jump down less than the voltage which can drive the controller work.
You need to measure the voltage of your battery when your bike works. Not always need the motor works,just need to connect all wires and push your throttle.
See the voltage change from your battery.
Q:nothing is happening with the battery when I turn on the engine. The voltage is standing on 41 volt all the time, nothing is happening. I have opened the controller and checked the led lamps and the light is on on led 1 and in led 2 is the light blinking 6 times and then a short stop and then it´s blinking 6 times again.
So I wonder that the problem is, is it the wheel or the controller or the throttle, is there a way to test which part it is or do you have a clue? Is there any part that I need to replace with a new?
A:Could you tell me what kind of controller you use?
The problem may come from the controller.
1.Throttle
red wire and black wire: 5V
2.Hall sensor(five wires)
red wire and black wire:5V
Q:I have been doing these tests and the results is:
on number 1 (trottle)= 4.5V
and number 2 (hall sensor) = 1.2V
so it´s not the same as you have.. the battery is 41V
hoping that you can figure something out from this!
Measure the controller:
1.Disconnect five hall sensor wires from the motor
2.Measure the hall sensor(red and black) wires from controller
Hall sensor from controller(five wires)
red wire and black wire:5,13V When unplugged and 1,32V when inplugged

black wire and green wire: 5,13M Ohm
black wire and blue wire:5,12M Ohm
black wire and yellow wire:5,09M Ohm

So this means that hall sensors are broken?
What shall we do?
Is it possible to repair or change these sensors?

electric bike battery can’t charge

Electric bike battery can’t charge,how to handle it?


Question 1:Ordered 1 set of 36V/12Ah electric bike battery with charger from one supplier last March.Now the li battery can’t charge.I sent several emails to this supplier,no any respond.Angry and aspire to slove it,can you help me…

Last Monday,I charged it all the whole night,but the second day,when I rode for less than 1 mile,the motor stopped.Recharged it,found the green led always on,can’t turn red.

I DON’T KNOW how to deal with it.Need help…Thanks.

Answer 1:First you need volt-meter to measure the voltage of charger and electric bike battery.Then can find problem.

Answer 2:Full charged this 36V electric bike battery reaches 42V.
1.Use voltmeter to measure the charger can get 42V.If not,charger is broken;
2.Measure battery,output voltage:33~42V,battery is also okay.If less than 33V,can’t charge it.

Answer 3:Generally the charger can’t get trouble.The problem is always from cells.
If the electric bike battery voltage is over-low.Battery’s BMS will not allow charger to work. Can’t charge for ever.
You should remove the BMS inside ev battery and let it to charge cells directly.
When voltage of the whole cells is more than standard voltage and re-connect BMS to cells.

Answer 4:Ride e-bike about one year,never meet this problem.

Question 2:The charger output 42V,but battery is 31.5V.
Disconnected cover,found a printed circuit board.But don’t know how to handle it.

Answer 5:B- → battery – (connect the cathode of the last pack of cells)
D- → – (connect to lock)
C- → – (connect to cathode of charging point)

B1 B2….B10 connects each pack of cells.

Answer 6:Your charger can’t work normal.You should disconnect 10-pin connector.
Charge it from B- and the positive of electric bike battery,bypass BMS,directly charge cells.

Note:Generally BMS can protect cells over-discharge and over-charger.But if your motor doesn’t work,just led lights work(current is less than 1A),at this time,BMS can’t protect cells.It will over-discharged your battery and make the voltage is less than normal so that can’t charger it.

We suggest if don’t ride your e-bike for more than 1 week,please remove electric bike battery power connector.

electric bike hub motor

Hub motor is an electric bike motor that is an important part for electric bike.A common bicycle with a motorized wheel(hub motor) is an electric bicycle.

1.According as your size of rim,it has 6″ 8″ 10″ 12″ 14″ 16″ 18″ casting hub motors and 20″ 24″ 26″ 700c and 28″ electric bike hub motors
From 6″ to 18″,the rims are much smaller,so always casting hub.And used for electric scooters,electric tricycles,sometimes also used for folding electric bicycles.
From 20″ to 28″,because of rims are much bigger,always use spokes to fit.And used for electric bicycles.

2.According as whether has “brush”,it has two type:brushless hub motor and brushed hub motor
Brushless hub motor is make up of aluminium hub,aluminium covers,axis,bearings,copper winding, rotor,hall sensor..
Brushed hub motor is make up of aluminium hub,aluminium covers,axis,bearings,gear box(several gears inside),printed copper slice,two pcs of brushes..

The brushless hub motor’s principle:electromagnetic fields are supplied to the stationary copper windings of the motor. The hub(outer part of the motor)follows, turning the attached wheel.

The brushed hub motor’s principle:energy is transferred by brushes contacting the rotating shaft of the motor that drive gears,then drive hub.

Compare them:
Noise Efficiency Torque Use-life
1.brushless hub motor: √ >78% √ >3-Year
2.brushed hub motor: a little noise <70% a little larger replace "brush" in 2 year With the advantage of brushless hub motor,it used for electric bike widely. According as use,it also called electric bike motor. According as current,it has ac and dc hub motor.But nearly all of hub motors are direct current(DC).

How to replace li battery cells?

Lead acid,LiFePo4,LiMn2O4,any kind of battery has use life.Generally 1 year warranty for battery.

Battery is a special good that is different from brushless controller,hub motor.Why?Controller and motor,if you don’t use for 1 year.Still no problem.But battery,you should charge it each two weeks,even if you don’t use.

For lithium battery,there are many cells make up of one battery.
Below we talk about LiMn2O4 battery first.
Now 4.2V 4Ah LiMn2O4 cell is familiar with us.
7 series for 24V,10 series for 36V,13 series for 48V
1.1 set of 24V 16Ah LiMn2O4 needs 28 pcs cells;
2.1 set of 36V 12Ah LiMn2O4 needs 30 pcs cells;
3.1 set of 36V 16Ah LiMn2O4 needs 40 pcs cells;
4.1 set of 48V 12Ah LiMn2O4 needs 39 pcs cells.

Too many cells for one battery,only one cell is sick.The whole of battery will be broken.
You will find that,full chargerd your battery,but it only drive your bicycle several meters,the motor will stop.
Because BMS found one sick cell,in order to protect other cells.BMS turns off power.

Now you need to replace sick cell,pls test as below,you will find it.
It’s a 36V li-ion battery.
Remove the battery end cover containing the charger socket. You will find a printed circuit board (PCB).
It is a battery management system (BMS) which equalizes the charge in each of the cells.
The wire B1 is the one attached to the battery anode. Connecting his professional quality voltmeter to the battery anode and to the other nine wires in succession.

There is one 10-Pin connector on this PCB. (B10 B9 B8 B7 B6 B5 B4 B3 B2 B1)

Measure the voltage between
the green wire and other nine wires as below:

B1 green wire to: Specification
B2 yellow wire(the second wire) 3.6V ~ 4.15V
B3 yellow wire(the third wire) 7.2V ~ 8.30V
B4 yellow wire(the fourth wire) 10.8V ~ 12.45V
B5 yellow wire(the fifth wire) 14.4V ~ 16.60V
B6 yellow wire(the sixth wire) 18.0V ~ 20.75V
B7 yellow wire(the seventh wire) 21.6V ~ 24.90V
B8 yellow wire(the eighth wire) 25.2V ~ 29.05V
B9 yellow wire(the ninth wire) 28.8V ~ 33.20V
B10 black wire (the tenth wire) 32.4V ~ 37.35V
If the voltages are normal,all cells are okay.

Incidentally, 32.4V~37.35V + 3.6V~4.15V = 36V~41.5V

Then, measure voltage of the battery
without BMS (B- and battery anode) 36V~41.5V
with BMS (D- and battery anode) 36V~41.5V
If these two voltages are the same, then the battery pack is okay.

Note:If the voltage of any cell is more than 4.2V.I think the cell is overcharge.It can stop BMS and battery work.So you should find out which cell is over charged.

Hub motor for electric bike

Hub motor is an electric motor that is an important part for electric bike.A common bicycle with a motorized wheel(hub motor) is an electric bicycle.

1.According as your size of rim,it has 6″ 8″ 10″ 12″ 14″ 16″ 18″ casting hub motors and 20″ 24″ 26″ 700c and 28″ electric bike hub motors
From 6″ to 18″,the rims are much smaller,so always casting hub.And used for electric scooters,electric tricycles,sometimes also used for folding electric bicycles.
From 20″ to 28″,because of rims are much bigger,always use spokes to fit.And used for electric bicycles.

2.According as whether has “brush”,it has two types:brushless hub motor and brushed hub motor
Brushless hub motor is make up of aluminium hub,aluminium covers,axis,bearings,copper winding, rotor,hall sensor..
Brushed hub motor is make up of aluminium hub,aluminium covers,axis,bearings,gear box(several gears inside),printed copper slice,two pcs of brushes..

The brushless hub motor’s principle:electromagnetic fields are supplied to the stationary copper windings of the motor. The hub(outer part of the motor)follows, turning the attached wheel.

The brushed hub motor’s principle:energy is transferred by brushes contacting the rotating shaft of the motor that drive gears,then drive hub.

With the advantage of brushless hub motor,it used for electric bike widely.

According as use,it also called electric bike hub motor.
According as current,it has ac and dc hub motor.But nearly all of hub motors are direct current(DC).