The reason I did not use your PAS was.I don’t have the tool to remove the crank arm. This one I used installs with out removing the crank arm. Yours is a small ring and would be hard to get the sensor close to the magnet disk. The aluminum ring would not fit my crank anyway, too large. My bike is a 1980 vintage Schwinn.
I am a retired electrical engineer,so I took some pictures for you on an oscilloscpe and meter I own. The signal makes it to the controller because I made the connections at the controller connector.
Image 281 shows that there is 4.2 volts on the red and black wire, which is about right. Image 289 shows the PAS sensor and pickup for it mounted on the bike. The distance between the magnets and the pickup is not critical as I tried several different distances. Image 287 is a picture of the signal making it to the controller as the crank is turned. The upper trace is the 4.2 volts on the red and black wire. The lower trace is the signal to the controller.
I notice that the signal is relatively low only 1/2 volt tall.
I solved the problem. I tried your sensor with the magnet wheel already on my bike. Hub motor works as it should. The pick up with the LED does not put out a strong enough signal for the controller. Yours does, as long as it is close to the magnets. The hub motor are controller are good. Thanks for the help.
The oscilloscope waveform was the only way to tell what was bad. Your waveform goes from and to + voltage as it should .
What does the tool look like for the spokes? The hub motor wheel is a little out of round. Some of the spokes are not seated in their hole on the hub motor so that may be the issue.
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